If you need to locate your Husqvarna model number and serial number, we can help! Find your Husqvarna equipment below to see model and serial number locations. Husqvarna Model and Serial Number Locations Model, Part, & Serial Number Locations The model number of a Husqvarna chainsaw is printed on the side of the recoil assembly on the unit(eg. 455, 460, 372 XP).
Husqvarna chainsaws also have a small metal plate stamped with the model number, part number, and serial number. The plate is typically located in one of four locations. 1.) Above the oil fill cap. 2.) Below the oil fill cap. 3.) Under the handle on the clutch side. 4.) In front of the clutch at the bottom, below the bar nuts. On the plate, the top number is the model number, the second is the part number, and the bottom number is the serial number.
For example: Model Number: 455 Part Number: 965030298 Serial Number: 091000001 Look up your. Model Number The model number of a Husqvarna hedge trimmer is printed on the top of the unit. Model, Part, & Serial Number The model number, part number, and serial number can be located on a sticker on the right side of the engine housing. Look up your. Model Number The model number of a Husqvarna walk behind lawn mower is printed on the top of the engine cover. Model, Part, & Serial Number The model number, part number, and serial number can be located on a sticker on the back of the deck, behind the engine.
Look up your. Model Number The model number of a Husqvarna lawn tractor is typically printed on a decal located on both sides of the hood. Model, Part, & Serial Number The model number, part number, and serial number is printed on a sticker located on the frame under the operator's seat.
Lift the seat forward to access the sticker. Look up your.
Model Number (Backpack) The model number of a Husqvarna backpack leaf blower is printed on back of the unit. Model, Part, & Serial Number (Backpack) The model, part, & serial number can be located on a sticker on the air outlet housing of the leaf blower. Look up your.
Model Number (Two Stage) The model number of a Husqvarna two stage snow blower is printed on the dashboard next to the headlight (if equipped). It can also be located on a decal on top of the auger housing. Model, Part, & Serial Number (Two Stage) The model number, part number, and serial number is printed on a sticker located on the right side of the impeller housing below the discharge chute. Look up your. Model Number (Single Stage) The model number of a Husqvarna single stage snow blower is printed on the lower side of the auger housing. Model, Part, & Serial Number (Single Stage) The model number, part number, and serial number is printed on a sticker located below the back of the snowblower on the right side of the bottom frame.
Look up your. Model Number The model number of a Husqvarna trimmer or brushcutter is printed on the back of the recoil assembly. Model, Part, & Serial Number The model, part, and serial number can printed on a sticker on the base of the trimmer. Model, Part, & Serial Number The model, part, and serial number can also be stamped onto a plate on the base of the trimmer. For example: Model Number: 128LD Part Number: 952711948 Serial Number: 06 Look up your. Model Number The model number of a Husqvarna zero turn is located on the front of the foot pan. Model, Part, & Serial Number The model number, part number, and serial number can be printed on a sticker located on the side of the base frame behind the left rear wheel.
Model, Part, & Serial Number The model number, part number, and serial number can also be printed on a sticker located on the inner frame near the right wheel fender. You may have to lift the operator's seat to gain better access to the sticker. Look up your.
This gun belonged to my deceased father-in-law. I have tried every site on the internet to find the exact same model (which is 175972) Husqvarna Vapenfabriks AB 270 Winchester bolt action rifle.
It's a beautiful gun and has a Williams Scope on it. Engraved also is Nitro 36 but don't know what that means. I can't find any information on it anywhere. I'm really hoping I can have success on this forum with one of you knowing something about it?? I know it's old but not antique old yet. I 'think' purchased in 1950's? Both my father-in-law and myself have kept it in great shape.
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Thanks to all who can help me out! JIMRO - busy with company here at the moment but in a few weeks I'll be able to provide pictures.
I do know it is a fine rifle - hunted with it myself - a policeman many years ago who knew guns told me I had an extraordinary rifle here but he didn't know the year or particulars of it either only that 'he' loved it. I couldn't find any model # only the serial number I've provided in my post that I can't locate anywhere on the internet. The biggest listing of serial numbers said some numbers were pulled because they weren't in production long, so that may be what happened re my rifle. I'd say you are close with the year, though.
Thanks to you (and others) for your input!:).
I just started fixing up my fathers Vapenfabriks A.B. Nitro 149XXX. It has a Monte Carlo stock with flat bottom pistol grip, slide adjustable ramp rear sight for I believe 100-300 yards. It has a push button in front of the trigger guard for removal of the mag floor plate.
600mm barrel. GREAT shooting gun Dad has always had a bit of 'Scottish pride' regarding his $28 3-9x30 bushnell scope from the 70's and how many deer it's killed. But after this years 'fail' on a nice mule deer from aging eyes in low light looking into the setting sun with the Ol' antique sportview, I was given the green light to bring the gun into the modern age with a new scope, rings, mounts. For the scope I'm going with a leapers 4-16x50 AO mil dot I'm wondering though. Will a Mauser 98 picatinny rail fit his receiver screw holes? I know there's issues with stripper clips but this isn't a military model it's for filling the freezer:D the following is what I'm considering. Sooo update on the rifle.
After a complete dis-assembly and finding tons of years worth of carbon build up and gunk (surprise?)in the bolt assembly that hasn't been cleaned in 40 years, things are running much smoother now. I've found a few small hairline cracks in the stock, one behind the mag well and a typical one at the rear of the tang. I'm going to glass bed the action with devcon 2 ton and that should get some more solid years out of the rifle stock. I installed a crispy razor sharp 2 lb Timney trigger (that I polished with with a ceramic stone) and Dad was AMAZED what modern machining can provide!
( maybe I can con him into buying a mill to finish the machine work, wait that won't work he's Scottish and tighter than bark on a tree! NM) I machined a picatinny rail with 20 MOA slope to fit (the span length between the holes was off by a few thousandths) Also added a UTG 1/4 MOA 4-16x 50mm scope with illuminated mil dot, a step up from the 1/2MOA 3-9x 32mm! Hopefully he can see that monster buck he missed out on in WY this year this time around:D Any suggestions on a bluing or parkerizing finish? I was thinking oil bathe all the metal for several months and let the metal soak as much oil as it can and polishing it.
Like log truckers do with the floor boards on their rigs. If not I have some good methods for super blue. The bluing is pretty sparse on parts of the barrel and trigger guard. Ok, since you asked, here is my opinion: Scope: I would use a different scope. The leapers you chose is Chinese junk, in my opinion, and is more likely to fail on you than the old Bushnell. There are other hunting (not 'tactical') scopes from reputable companies that are inexpensive and will serve you much better.
You're going to have to spend more than you did for the Leapers, but you REALLY get what you pay for in optics. There is NO need for a 20 MOA rail. It is a hunting rifle, and will reach out to any reasonable hunting range (and then some!) with a normal mount. Glass bedding: Good idea! It will help keep your stock from cracking further, and might improve the rifle's accuracy. Do your homework how to do it, if you haven't done it before.
It's not hard, but you can make a mess if you don't have a plan when you start. Refinishing: I would leave it alone. It has a pretty nice finish for a rifle of that age!!! I think an old working rifle should have a worn, but well maintained, blued finish. To protect the existing bluing, pull the action from the stock and buff everything with Turtle Wax for cars. It works wonders for corrosion protection and sticks better than oil without being 'wet.' You've got a fantastic rifle there!
Take care of it and it will be filling the freezer for a long time. I think for a 30-06 hunting rifle, 16X is WAY more magnification than you need, and the Mil-dot redicle won't be very useful. Do you know how to range in Mils? If not, they are of little use. These are some scopes I would recommend.
They are the most inexpensive scopes that I would trust on a hunting rifle: The Nikon and Leupold scopes even have a built in BDC redicle, which would be much better than a Mil-dot for holdovers in hunting situations. All of the above also have LIFETIME warranties. Please reconsider the UTG!!!!! I know, I would like to have selected a slightly higher priced scope.
But we are talking about a very stubborn and cheap man here, you've no idea! He fails to grasp the concept 'you get what you pay for and pay for what you get' all he sees is dollar signs. A wiser old shop owner 'told me cheap s#!+ is for rich people' because it breaks/fails/doesn't work and you have to buy a replacement! Thanks Dan-O for the reminder I totally forgot about WAX! And yes I'm familiar with the bedding process. (thanks AGI!) I wish I could get my father into actual shooting but he's just a 'gun owner' and not a shooter. His sole interest is filling the freezer.
I on the other hand realize how far our typical shot is and want as much of an edge and skill set I can get! According to him cheek weld and comb height don't matter and sight alignment makes no difference at all.
A cheek pad makes a rifle 'ugly' I even offered to make a handmade 'pretty' one out of rosewood or walnut, nope!palm to face sigh, banging my head now. This is why he can't hit a barn with his shotgun the stock doesn't FIT him! ANYHOW enough stressing about that, back to my classical music.
What sort of issues are folks having with the leapers scopes? As long as it gathers more light and holds a zero it should work for Mr. Skinflint Last edited by black beer'd; at 10:09 PM. That's funny because my old man was the one who taught me that you get what you pay for. That's a good point that you can't afford cheap gear.
As for the Leapers scope, I had one of theirs on an AR as a novelty. It would not hold zero AT ALL. When you changed the power, the zero shifted even to the point where there was an 8' difference in point of impact at the lowest power compared with the highest.
I can either think of that as the cheapest scope I ever bought, or the most expensive paperweight. As for reloading, for most hunters, it doesn't make sense. The start up cost is high, so it takes A LOT of rounds to 'break even.' Even then, you have to take into account that your time has value and loading your own takes a lot more time and effort than buying a new box of ammo. Good luck with your project. Hva 1640.with older type sights.stock looks heavily sanded at bolt stop changes in shape.
4000 series with sights. As far as scopes.the older the eyes you have to buy the higher price scopes with much better glass. Nikon makes excellent opts at lower prices. 16 in hit zone on a deer.no need of mil dots but nikon makes them also! Soake metal in kerosene to penetrate rust clean and forget re blueing.
Compass in the buttstock added. When stock was sanded i imagine? Worth.its history to family, hunting abilities and excellent lineage! Nice gun.with the high rings to clear the saftey and adjustment ring.
With the low sporter stock will make it very difficult to place head steadyed. It seemed many come across this problem with modern scopes and or too short to mount. A steel weaver fixed power 6 x scope a few others 4 x powers, even 8 powere fixed some others trial error. More near the time period 'look' and or steel lower rings in weaver mounts. Will fit the total profile of your 1000, FN action.
I have peep sights on my 1000, 1200, 1951.to keep them classic looking. Took off early weaver off one of them.? None centering cross hairs.
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I recently bought an HVA action that is missing the serial number. I just disassembled it today, cleaned it up a little with some nitro solvent and I can't find a serial number on it.
Was planning on using it to have a rifle built, now I am at a loss. I would like to find out if anyone knows if the manufacturer ever made some of these actions and did not stamp a serial number on them. Can I still have a gunsmith built me a rifle with it?
Here is a description of the action: Husqvarna Crown trademark and the word SWEDEN stamped on the top of the receiver ring. Proofmark and word Nitro stamped on the flat under receiver ring behind the recoil lug, (missing serial number). Left Receiver wall is stamped with HVA ACTION-MADE IN SWEDEN Trigger guard magazine feels light, must be some sort of alloy material.
All of the stamped markings are deep and very visible. Bolt has a magnum bolt face, magazine box easily accomodates medium magnum cartridges. Please advise?
The first Husky made action is the 1640 action. It was made from 1953 to 1967. This is likely what you have.
It should have a long Mauser extractor and mechanical ejector with a sliding safety button. The rifle models with this action are 1640, 1740, 2100, 1600,( Calibers would have been 6.5x55, 270, 30-06, 8x57, 9.3x62) model 1651 (358 Mag only), 3000, 6000, or 7000 (243, 308, 270, 30-06, 9.3x62 and 7mm Mag). These rifles may have made without S/N's because no one cared way back then.
Many were imported without serial numbers as it wasn't required until after the GCA act of 1968. I think your Gunsmith can make a rifle on the action but may have to stamp a number on it. Many guns still exist without serial numbers and are traded quite frequently. I've never had a gun made on an action with out. Your smith should know the rules.
Big Al, so there would not be any legal issues with me or a gunsmith stamping a serial number on the action since it does not have one. I will talk to the gunsmith about this before I start on the rifle project. The Swedish action looks well done and is pretty smooth when I cycle the bolt.
Haven't really decided what to built with the action yet though. May consider another 358 NM or a 375 Ruger or one of it's variants, that is after I finish up the two other rifle projects I am planning. Anyone have any opinions about these Swedish made rifle actions, just curious. Are they good quality or are there issues with them that I should be aware of before I start my planning? Big Al, so there would not be any legal issues with me or a gunsmith stamping a serial number on the action since it does not have one. I will talk to the gunsmith about this before I start on the rifle project.
The Swedish action looks well done and is pretty smooth when I cycle the bolt. Haven't really decided what to built with the action yet though. May consider another 358 NM or a 375 Ruger or one of it's variants, that is after I finish up the two other rifle projects I am planning. Anyone have any opinions about these Swedish made rifle actions, just curious.
Are they good quality or are there issues with them that I should be aware of before I start my planning? Thanks It matters not one wit what is done in another country regarding where the serial number is placed on the rifle. What matters is that the serial number is on the action in the U.S.
This is the only way your gunsmith can stay in compliance when he enters the information in his long book to remain in compliance with the regulations his license agreement requires. As to the action, just remember that the receiver ring is smaller (in dia) than a large ring Mauser. Not much but there is a difference. Vary good actions, I have several and am always on the lookout for more, as they are a prefered action for light weight sheep rifles. If I had the kind of requirements for a long range accurate rifle for caribou.
I would barrel and chamber for the 6.5/.284. Great killer for everything you could want to kill in your neck of the wood/tundra.
Vary good bullets are available for this caliber. Being as how most hunting out west is done from a boat, I would get a long heavy barrel installed by one of the top makers. I would chose Hart, Shillien or any maker like them or Kreiger that builds and installs their own barrels. To finish up, I would get a good stock installed by one of the better stock makers. Why try to reinvent the wheel when we already have ctgs with proven track records for accuracy. By the way you won't find better than the 6.5 for shooting in the winds. I've yet to hunt where you are for caribou, when the wind is not blowing.
Big Al, Comparing the two mauser designs, the Small Ring with a 1 1/4' Front Receiver Ring and the Large Ring with a 1 3/8' Front Receiver Ring. My question is; what are the maximum pressure levels for each? When I checked the bolt face on the HVA with a fired magnum case it fit perfectly, so that kinda limits my options for cartridge selection. After reading your thread yesterday I read up on other available 6.5mm cartridges, one that came to mind was a 264 Winchester Magnum. For some odd reason the majority of Native men (older generation) prefer 264 WMs, and there is a fledgling following of younger men coming up through the ranks that also prefer this cartridge. Suprisingly, it is not just here in my village, most of the surrounding villages also have a pretty good 264 WM following.
I owned one about 7 years ago, never hunted with it though. Sold it to my cousin who has used it on caribou and moose, he still prefers it over any other rifle he owns. Must be a pretty good round. It matters not one wit what is done in another country regarding where the serial number is placed on the rifle. What matters is that the serial number is on the action in the U.S. This is the only way your gunsmith can stay in compliance when he enters the information in his long book to remain in compliance with the regulations his license agreement requires.Al & Allen, I think all guns manufactured after 1968 or imported after 1968 must have a serial number on the receiver. Some guns imported without S/N's on them had serial numbers numbers stamped on them by the importer as were model numbers and Husky falls into that category.
Also several of my Husky's have had serial numbers stamped on them under the stock (bottom of the action)and were restamped on the barrel or else where to have a readily visable s/n. This may have to do with import laws before 1968. I don't know about a smith 'making' a rifle from an existing action without a serial number. He may have to stamp it. A good chance for a custom serial number. A question of you in regard to the large ring/small ring actions.
Husky history says Husky made rifles on 96 actions as well as FN M98 actions. Then of course went to their own actions maunfactured in Sweden. Are the FN 98 actions all large ring? Are the small ring actions just 96 style receivers? Or are the small ring Husky rifles actions m98's with smaller front rings?
'A question of you in regard to the large ring/small ring actions. Husky history says Husky made rifles on 96 actions as well as FN M98 actions. Then of course went to their own actions manufactured in Sweden. Are the FN 98 actions all large ring? Are the small ring actions just 96 style receivers? Or are the small ring Husky rifles actions m98's with smaller front rings?' Copyright laws prohibit me from coping what Volume II of Stuart Otteson's book 'THE BOLT ACTION' has to say in chapter 12 under the title 'Carl Gustaf.
Put simply the HVA rifle's action imported by Tradewinds in 1955 through the time of the new action was the 1640 that you mentioned earlier was a compromise between Model 98 and the earlier Model 94 and 96 small ring actions manufactured by Carl Gustaf. It is a long and vary interesting history and far to long for me to try and improve on the work of Stuart Otteson.
Remember that the receiver ring on the Model 98 is 1.3' and these on the 1640 is 1.290'. The actions that replaced the 1640 was designed by Gunnar Larsson in 1965 and did not go into production until 1967 this was the Model 1900 and as nice as this NEW action is, it could not be mistaken for a Mauser action as it is a push feed action. The 1640 action does have a good position into days highly specialised custom gunmakers market as they are highly desirable for the guy that wants the best in a sheep rifle and demands the reliability of a controlled feed action. It was for this reason of the best rifles and ctgs for the sheep hunter, that I asked Woodleigh to bring out bullets in 6.5mm which they did. I explained to them that a good deal of the time sheep hunters in our Alaska are hunting in country that has grizzly bear. Even though sheep do not need the type of bullet that Woodleigh makes, the safety provided by them would add a degree of reliability to the hunter in need of extended coverage. None of the 1640 actions are Model 98's as they do not have the rail cutout or stripper clip slot.
Triggers are of course different. As to the similarities between the two, is much the same. I think all of this leads to the question of which is the better action the FN commercial actions or the 1640 HVA action.
I simply answer, that both have a place in consideration for the hunter. Naturally the FN has a much larger field for consideration.
Here is a shocker for the Mauser lovers out there in gun nut land. Your government now prohibits the importation of all Mauser action and rifles with the rail cutout and stripper clip slots. No matter that the rifle was always a commercial item. Ain't government just great?
Big Al, Comparing the two Mauser designs, the Small Ring with a 1 1/4' Front Receiver Ring and the Large Ring with a 1 3/8' Front Receiver Ring. My question is; what are the maximum pressure levels for each? When I checked the bolt face on the HVA with a fired magnum case it fit perfectly, so that kinda limits my options for cartridge selection.
After reading your thread yesterday I read up on other available 6.5mm cartridges, one that came to mind was a 264 Winchester Magnum. For some odd reason the majority of Native men (older generation) prefer 264 WMs, and there is a fledgling following of younger men coming up through the ranks that also prefer this cartridge. Surprisingly, it is not just here in my village, most of the surrounding villages also have a pretty good 264 WM following. I owned one about 7 years ago, never hunted with it though.
Sold it to my cousin who has used it on caribou and moose, he still prefers it over any other rifle he owns. Must be a pretty good round.My dislike for the barrel eating.264 WINCHESTER mag knows no bounds. That is the fastest throat eating round I ever loaded for, bar none. That said, I love the 6.5mm bullets and have had a love affair with them for more the 40 years.
The term 'overbore capacity' so often used By the late PARKER ACKLEY, applies to the.264 Winny. I went through the problems that the 6.5/06 gives a shooter and rebarreled because of the problems. I have been through more 6.5 barrels than any other caliber (except.22 and 6mm for benchrest). Why because that is the caliber that has interested me more than any other since my first.264 Win mag in 1963. For a long range flat shooting bullet, you just have to lay the first prize at this caliber's feet.
Of course I'm mean by that, a rifle that you don't need a forklift to carry. WE forget that the people that we are talking about, if they are hunters only and not shooters also are well served by all the factory loadings. They are not shooting hundreds of rounds a year. If I could have only one 6.5mm?
Hands down it would be the 6.5x55mm Sweed. Give me a truck load of ammo and a few barrels and I would be well satisfied. About your question in regards to bolt face, yes the bolts are the same the only difference is the bolt face and the extractor for all the ctgs ever chambered in these actions. All the working pressures considered safe will work fine in both actions. Does that mean that the larger ring is not stronger?
In reference to the ring of course that part is stronger, but that is not to big of a consideration as other areas will fail first. When it comes to handling excess gas pressure. Everybody that designs bolt actions, first starts with Mauser and then makes small changes. Look at all the top dollar, after market hunting actions (controlled feed) and they are nothing more than a copy of the Mauser with a lot of small improvements. Why do I harp on the 6.5/.284? That is right at the point of max bore capacity for the 6.5mm.
Good barrel life is still to be had with this ctg, but it can be pushed to the point where that is not always true. When you live in the bush, you have to know what's always going to be on the shelf in the village store (unless you reload), for this reason only, a guy really has to think about what's going to be available. Thanks AL, That was a good lesson on Huskys. I have Otteson's first book and it has become a great reference.
I would like to get hold of the volume II but haven't seen it lately. To me when we say small ring Mauser we are talking about the Swedish M94, 96, 38 and in general any M98 is large ring. I know there are exceptions but with the Husky rifles we had the small ring Swedish Mauser based guns, the FN M98 based and then the 1640 actions, etcetera. The later push feeders are so different. The 1640 is an M98 with different trigger, safety, bolt stop, bolt shroud, so it still qualifies as a Mauser.
The side rail cut and the stripper notch are lost form the later model FN Mausers but I've only seen one Husky M98 that had no stripper notch but many without the side cut. I have here a M98 FN made without side rail cut and with a stripper notch, with a Mauser trigger and safety. It is a Husqvarna model 640 and is stamped M640 and the name SARCO and something else I can't make out. (The importer I presume.) This stamp is on the bottom of the barrel just aft of the barrel mounted sling mount. Ak 47 serial numbers. On the top of the barrel forward of the rear sight is stamped HUSQVARNA VAPPENFABRIKS A. This is a post 1948 action with out the side rail cut out and is obviously an FN action with the FN box magazine and the trap door floor plate but with the recessed floor plate latch, requiring a bullet tip or other such instrument to open it. It has the true Mauser bolt and three position safety and the C cut breach.
The serial number is stamped on the left side of the front ring above the proof mnark and below the stock line. This serial number is also stamped on the barrel, left side just aft of the rear sight, above the stock line. The barrel stamp is smaller and looks more uniform and professional making me think the receiver was stamped after manufacture, but maybe not. The top of the ring has the crown, the gothic 'H' and the word 'SWEDEN'. This front receiver ring measures 1.425' in diameter. It is a very nice specimen of the 1950's Husqvarna's civilian sporting rifle. Is this pretty much in harmony with what you know about these rifles?
Nothing out of the ordinary? I have a suspicion that what you have is a re-barreled and stamp added civilian marksman's action. Do search through the usual Mauser books and I think you will find that rifle and action pictured in it's competitive clothing.
Think about the great love the swead's had for the 6.5x55mm for just about ever. The bolt face for the 8x57mm being the same. I have a memory of these vary nice Sweed rifles from the 50's era.
I think I would start my search with Ludwig Olson's page 275 of 'Mauser BOLT RIFLES'. Now with all that said, you need to unload that POS, you can keep the barrel and stock, even the trigger. I have lots to trade or I have cash. I have a ton of info, but lack the time to type it all out.
Does that action have a flat bolt knob? Does it have the push button bottom trap door magazine? I can't see all of it in the pics. I noticed it is without a bolt shroud safety, these were with the Sako triggers. A standard Sako trigger and safety will fit if you want that type of trigger.
They are a really good, fully adjustable box trigger. Th FN action with the left side two position flag safety (FN safety) on the action without the thumb cut or stripper notch and with the Mauser trigger are called the Deluxe action. Then came the Supreme action which has the Sako trigger and safety and all but the earliest ones had the flat bolt knob. These were generally D&T for scope and receiver sights. Yours looks round and would be a transition model, some characteristics of each. Is this the one without a serial number?
A lot of the actions were imported (without serial numbers) into the country to make rifles here during the 1950's. I recently bought a Sears & Roebuck, J.C.
Higgins 30-06 of the '50's and it is D&T for scope mounts and has the flat knob and flag safety (2 pos) but a funny 'Sears' trigger which I dislike and will need to replace it. The trigger is pinned into the triger gaurd housing with a small spring for 'pull resistance' and the sear is pinned to the bottom of the receiver. If you loosen a bedding screw, the sear will release.
Husqvarna Rifle Serial Number Lookup
These were the stupidest triggers I've ever seen and this one must go. I'd like to find a standard Mauser trigger and sear for this one and it is going to become my 400 Thuma. This one is based on the improved 376 Steyr case and will exceed the 450/400 Nitro Express ballistics.
I like the Deluxe FN actions. I want a 'C' cut breach and a Mauser trigger with the bolt shroud 2 position (FN) flag safety. I really like the trap door bottom with the extended (FN) push button release. I want the standard FN scope base hole spacing. Leupold, Warne, Talley and just about everybody makes bases for that pattern. I have several rifles made on this action and I will buy all I can get.
Like I said, I like the FN Mauser actions. You have a very good one, there.
HVA has a round bolt knob, magazine floorplate release button on inside of trigger guard, no bolt safety shroud, no adjustment screws on trigger and yes the bolt release is the little button release type on the left side of the action. D&T for both scope mounts and receiver sight (right side).
Husqvarna Rifle Serial Number Lookup
FN has a flat checkered area on the action side of the knob, D&T for both scope mounts and a receiver sight (right side), serial number is located on the flat area under the receiver ring behind recoil lug (just one single numeric digit), flat type magazine floor plate release button located on the front of the trigger guard.
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